Living in Tashkent: Comprehensive Guide for Expats

When our family was planning to move from the US to Uzbekistan for a couple of years, we read a lot of online information. Some of it was useful, but none of it was detailed enough to fully prepare us for comfortably settling in. Living in Tashkent is interesting, but it sure isn’t easy. A lot of things turned out very different from what we imagined. I wish we knew better what to expect early on. This would have saved us some time and energy.

I hope this guide will be helpful for you and your family if you are planning a move to Tashkent. We’ve been living in Tashkent since 2023 and still have a couple more years to go. By now, we have learned a lot about the country and are ready to share our knowledge.

Like with any other country, there is an easy and a hard way to do things. An affordable and an expensive way. Hopefully, I’ll be able to shed some light on the key issues you might be facing and give some good tips.

Housing

Moving to another country and settling in is always a challenge. But it becomes easier if you have a nice and comfortable home to move into.

In Tashkent, you will find two main housing options: an apartment or a single-family house. In both cases, you can find some good places to live.

Apartment buildings

We opted for an apartment because we wanted to live in the center, be close to my daughter’s school, the metro, markets, shops, and restaurants, do minimal cleaning (Tashkent is quite dusty), and have the opportunity to walk around the neighborhood at any time of day. There are some really nice apartment complexes to choose from (for example, along Taras Shevchenko Street), and some simpler ones that would be lower in price (one of our friends lives in a lovely complex near the Kosmonavt metro station).

A word of caution on new developments. If you opt for a brand-new complex, you might end up with some units that are not yet sold/finished. This might result in some dust/noise. If you don’t mind, it’s fine. If you want peace and tranquility, it might be better to look for complexes built a while back. For example, we were recommended renting one of the Gabus apartments, which have some of the best designs in Tashkent and are considered quite safe.

Bear in mind that elevators occasionally don’t work in apartment buildings (especially in areas far from the center). If you have vulnerable family members, you need to factor this in, as they might not be able to climb 6 or 7 flights of stairs.

Generally speaking, from our family’s experience, Tashkent is not yet suited for the elderly and people with disabilities. Positive changes are being introduced, but more needs to be done. In many places, there are no ramps to enter. In addition, it is very hard for people with limited mobility to cross the street. Traffic lights are programmed to provide minimal time for crossing. Even young, fit people can barely make it, let alone others. If you have a vulnerable family member moving with you, you’ll need to keep these issues in mind. Hiring a family driver might be a prudent measure.

Houses

In terms of houses, there are also plenty of great options. Depending on your budget, you could get a bigger or a smaller house with a garden and possibly an indoor or outdoor pool. Some houses are really gorgeous and perfect for large families. Houses would generally be a bit further away from the center, and oftentimes, you wouldn’t find the same infrastructure right outside your door.

Before you make a decision, carefully consider the location of your kids’ school and your office. Also, decide how kids will be taken to school (yourself, a driver, carpool, etc.). Keep in mind that traffic during rush hour is horrible. We moved over the summer and were under the impression that it was very easy and quick to get from point A to Point B. But then school started, and we were in for a rude awakening.

If you opt for a house with a pool, make sure you consider safety issues. I’ve read a few articles about little kids falling into pools here in Tashkent. Some houses are large and have large plots, so you’ll need to keep a very close eye on small children.

Getting around (taxis, cars, metro)

Taxis

A big advantage of living in Tashkent is that there are many taxis, and they are VERY cheap compared to the United States. At any given time, you will generally be able to move around the city for just a couple of dollars. Prices go up and down throughout the day, depending on how busy it is, but you will rarely pay more than five dollars. On weekends, taxis are usually cheaper because fewer people are out and about in the city.

Some of the taxi services to use are Yandex, Uklon and MyTaxi.

Drivers are usually quite quick. Normally, you won’t need to wait more than a couple of minutes. Importantly, drivers rarely speak English. They often speak Russian, but some only speak Uzbek, so communication would be an issue.

I strongly suggest checking the driver’s rating on the app. Drivers with low ratings can have poor driving skills, use the phone while driving, or be impolite. They might also choose the wrong routes, which would result in a much longer trip for you due to traffic. That said, a few times I took a risk with drivers with low ratings and found no issues with the ride. The drivers were polite and nice. Maybe they are trying to improve their rating- who knows.

Also, please keep in mind that many taxi drivers are not local, and you need to be very precise when specifying your location. In some rare cases, the app picked up the wrong location, and I ended up waiting for the car in vain. Calling the driver was helpful sometimes, but not always. In a few cases, the drivers never found me, even though I specified the exact street where I was. They simply did not know the city, and their only way to get around was their app. To avoid this type of situation, I was advised to use drivers with license plates starting with 01 (Tashkent) or 10 (Tashkent region). They are more familiar with the city. I use them for more complex trips when I don’t know for sure where I’m going.

Tashkent Metro

A big advantage of living in Tashkent is that you can use the metro. Tashkent metro is gorgeous and very easy to use. It’s not a very big metro, like you’d find in Washington, DC, or New York City, for example. But it’s very functional, and you can get to quite a few places.

Each station has a different theme. The metro is not crowded and mostly used by younger people, which gives it a sort of hip feel. Trains come every 5 minutes or so. In the past, you could buy a ticket at the station for 1,400 soums (about 10 cents). Now you cannot buy a ticket for cash, but you can use your credit card. It’s very easy, cheap, and convenient.

If you live in a central location, as we do, you will be able to use the metro frequently. There are a lot of stations. If you live farther out, opportunities to use the metro would be quite limited.

Please keep in mind that the metro is usually quite crowded during rush hour. It’s often not crowded at all during off-peak hours.

Cars

For a long time, Tashkent was a city of Chevrolet cars. Most of the residents owned a Chevy. Things have changed a lot in the recent couple of years. There are now many BYD and Kia cars on the road as well. Many people buy white cars. It is widely believed that white is better for hot summers (supposedly, it reflects heat better than black or brown). To import a car, a high duty is required, so it’s better to buy a locally manufactured car.

Traffic in Tashkent is horrendous, and getting through the city during rush hour is always very challenging. Rush hour starts at about 7:30 am because that is when most people drop off their children at school and head to the office. Around 5 pm, heavy traffic starts again. If you can avoid driving during rush hour, you should. I personally try to take the metro whenever possible.

International Schools

Tashkent has multiple schools for foreign children. These include Tashkent International School (TIS), British School of Tashkent, Oxbridge, Cambridge, Canadian International School, and others. There are also numerous Russian schools in the city and, of course, many Uzbek schools (the city’s young population is very large, so schools seem to be everywhere).

I must say that when we just moved to Tashkent, the expat scene was not yet crowded. With fewer foreigners living in Tashkent, class sizes at private schools were very manageable (about 14 students). This allowed the teacher to get to know the kids well and provide some personalized attention. We were quite happy with the school environment.

These days, the situation has worsened. More and more expats are arriving, and their kids are all going to the same schools. We now have either 19 or 20 kids in the class (I lost track; they keep adding kids). This is similar to what we had in a public school in DC. I hear that in another international school, the situation is similar, with more and more kids added. So, don’t expect small class sizes even if you go to an international school with the highest price tag.

One other issue I see with international schools is that school staff, teachers, principals, etc., all leave after several years. At our school, we had a lot of turnover. Some of our favorite teachers left. The director will be leaving soon as well.

Tashkent International School

My daughter goes to Tashkent International School – TIS – which is the choice of many expat families living in Tashkent. Most Americans go here. It’s a very large school with a beautiful green campus where kids can play before and after school. Language of instruction is English. At this school, kids learn some basic Russian and Uzbek. Unfortunately, no other foreign languages are offered. Teachers at TIS are mostly expats, although some teachers are local.

The school provides a hot lunch in a nice cafeteria. Lunch includes soup, salad, a main course, and some fruits. They offer international, vegetarian, and Korean options. My daughter generally likes the food there (but not always).

Cultural life at school is rich. The school organizes a lot of events for the kids, for example, the United Nations Day, Halloween, etc.

Compared to some other schools in Tashkent, TIS has a rather relaxed attitude, which might be appropriate for elementary school kids, but less so for older kids. If you are looking for a school with a lot of rigor and discipline, then the British School of Tashkent might suit you better.

Childcare

Taking care of children is a complex issue in most countries. Tashkent is no exception. You need to find an arrangement that best works for your family.

Most expat parents living in Tashkent hire a nanny and a driver for their kids. They will take your children to and from school.

As a rule of thumb, nannies here don’t drive. Some of them may be comfortable taking a taxi with the kids; others, not so much. Having a driver is much preferred because then you will know who will drive your kids at all times. As mentioned earlier, taxi driver quality varies, and you might not want to risk it.

From my personal experience, finding a good, English-speaking nanny in Tashkent is not easy. Many nannies speak only Uzbek, so this will not work for most expats. Some speak Russian and Uzbek. There aren’t many English-speaking nannies, and they are usually already employed. Another issue we encountered with nannies is that many live outside Tashkent and have very long commutes. Living with the family is often preferred by them. If you want a live-in nanny, you need to carefully consider your housing options to ensure you have enough space.

We needed to change several nannies before we found one who met our needs. Mostly, you will get a good nanny through friends, colleagues, etc. We tried using an agency, but they did not send anyone suitable.

Shopping

Shopping choices in Tashkent are not as diverse as in many Western cities, so be prepared. You might want to bring some things from the US (e.g., makeup of your favorite brand), if you can. You might not be able to find them here. Substitutes are available, but I was personally used to some brands for many years, and I felt a bit at a loss not having them here.

Grocery shopping

For grocery shopping, a common choice is the Korzinka network of stores. They have an okay selection of groceries (it’s not Giant or Safeway, of course, but you’ll find most of the things you need). Prices are reasonable, and quality is generally good. You can also shop at numerous smaller stores, which offer the same products but at a slightly higher price.

On the shelves, there are many products made locally in Uzbekistan, as well as many items from Russia. If you want to buy items made in the US and similar countries, be careful and check prices. A few times I noticed that their price was outrageous compared to what you’d pay in the US (for example a box of honey nut cheerios was $20 or something ridiculous like that). Generally, imports from countries other than neighboring ones are expensive here, as Uzbekistan is double landlocked and transporting goods is not easy.

Supermarkets sell local fruit which are quite good. Once a week, I also go to the market to get a better variety of fruits and vegetables. Prices are quite similar, but you get more choices. Of course, you have to be careful in the market: as a foreigner, you are guaranteed to be charged higher prices. Make sure to bargain. Generally speaking, everything tastes much better here than in the US. The produce is very fresh.

Malls and online shopping

There are various stores around the city (including in the market) and some malls, like Riviera Mall. There are also opportunities for online shopping. For example, Uzum Market offers pickup or delivery of various products. Both selection and prices seem reasonable.

Also, there are opportunities to order goods from Europe and the US for delivery to Uzbekistan. You can do this through services like Globbing. It takes a few weeks to get your package, but this is one of the few ways to get your favorite US or European brands here. You pay $8 for 1 kg of shipment, so it makes sense to buy clothes, vitamins, makeup, and other light items. There is only one center in Tashkent where you can pick up your items, but it’s very efficient. You can also order home delivery if you’d like.

Water

In Tashkent, you will have to buy drinking water. No way around it. Coming from the US, this was a bit of a shocker, but hey, you need to get used to a new reality.

You can install a water filter at home to save some money. We have a filter, and the guy comes to change the cartridge every 3 months. I am still not sure whether the filtered water is good enough to be drinkable, so we mostly use it to wash fruit, dishes, boil for tea, etc.

We order drinking water from a service for actual drinking and cooking. We prefer Hydrolife natural mountain water. To start water delivery, you need to buy a cooler (which can be purchased separately or through the company) and then order 2-3 water capsules every couple of weeks. The price per capsule is about $3.5, which is not expensive. The water tastes very fresh, and you will definitely not regret ordering it.

Money

The national currency of Uzbekistan is the soum. The exchange rate to USD is approximately 12,000 soums.

Generally speaking, you can pay with your US credit card in many places in Tashkent. When using taxi services, you’ll be able to add your credit card in the app the same way you do in the US. At many supermarkets, restaurants, malls, and even government offices, they also accept major credit cards.

Occasionally, terminals won’t work, or payments need to be attempted several times until they succeed. Just be ready for that. Ask the cashier to repeat the transaction if it was declined for no reason.

It’s always good to carry some local currency with you as a backup. You can exchange dollars or euros at a local bank (if you brought cash with you). You can also withdraw foreign currency from your foreign card at a local bank (note that there is a commission).

Opening a local bank account

As you get settled in Tashkent and try to use more services (e.g., take your kids to some classes, book a birthday party for your kid, get some services at a local hospital, do more shopping, and eat at more restaurants), you will discover that sometimes their terminal only accepts local cards or the vendor wants you to wire money to their local card.

So, it’s a good idea to open an account at a local bank as soon as you can (it will take some time). This will greatly expand the probability that your card will be accepted by a local vendor. Plus, you will have an opportunity to transfer money from one local card to another via an app on your smartphone. A lot of vendors here accept payment exactly this way.

In order to open a bank account, you will definitely need a PINFL (identification number in Uzbekistan) and a local SIM card. Make sure you get those once you get to Tashkent.

Air Quality

The air quality is a global concern. Last summer, we became very familiar with this concept in Washington, D.C., when we had to endure terrible air quality for weeks because of Canada’s wildfires. We wore masks and stayed inside till it was safe to walk around.

In Tashkent, air quality varies from day to day. On some days, it will be within the norm, on others, it will not be good, and sometimes it will be terrible. A few months ago, we had a dust storm here in Tashkent when everything outside looked white and foggy. I thought it was fog, but it turned out to be dust. Another time, there was a large explosion at a warehouse, and the air was also poor because of it. Importantly, air quality is consistently poor in winter. On bad air quality days, it’s better to stay inside to avoid a stuffy nose or worse. For little kids, it’s especially important to stay indoors as they are more affected than adults.

For those sensitive to air quality, it’s a good idea to check the Tashkent Real-Time Air Quality Index (AQI), which is readily available on the website. I check it from time to time, especially when it looks foggy, and then decide how long I want to be outside on a given day. At international schools, air quality is monitored, and specific procedures are in place for various levels.

That said, outside of Tashkent, the air is very clear, especially in the mountains. So, if you want to go away for the weekend, you won’t have to worry about air quality.

Time

Uzbekistan’s time zone is GMT + 5 hours. They do not observe daylight saving time. As such, time in the country is the same throughout the year. I personally found this approach less disruptive compared to the US, where we change clocks twice a year without any visible benefits.

Language

The main language spoken in Uzbekistan is Uzbek. For most Americans and Europeans, it will be impossible to understand. Uzbek is part of the Turkic language family. People who speak Turkish, Kazakh, Kyrgyz, Azerbaijani, and Arabic might find some similarities with their languages, but there is nothing similar to English.

Another language spoken in Uzbekistan is Russian. Due to the Soviet past, many older people were required to study this language at school and still speak fluently. Many younger people still learn Russian as a second language. If you speak Russian, you’ll feel fairly comfortable in Tashkent. Most people will understand you, and you will understand them. However, outside Tashkent, Russian is not widely spoken, so be ready for that. Generally speaking, I see that more and more people are now speaking Uzbek rather than Russian.

If you don’t speak any Russian or Uzbek, you will likely face a language barrier at some point. Today, relatively few people still speak English in Tashkent, though the trend is slowly changing. Many people are starting to learn or improve their English as they understand it’s quite important. In any case, it’s definitely a good idea to learn some basic words in Russian or Uzbek for conversations in the store, with taxi drivers, at the market, or at government offices. You’ll find English speakers mostly in places that frequently deal with foreigners (international schools, large hotels, upscale restaurants, etc.)

Mail

When I first arrived in Tashkent and rented an apartment, I was surprised not to see the usual mailboxes in the building. That seemed weird.

“How does one get regular mail here?” I asked my landlord.

Well, turns out you’d have to go to the post office to get your letters or packages (if you order something through Uzum market or Globbing, the process is different; see the Malls and online shopping section above). Each building is mapped to a particular post office in the neighborhood. My post office turns out to be actually quite far from where I live (a 15-minute walk), but that’s the way life goes, I guess.

The good part is that the mail lady in the post office recorded my phone number together with my address. Every time a package or a letter arrives for me, she calls me and tells me to come and get it.

Sports

Our family enjoys different sports. As soon as we moved to Tashkent, we did extensive research. We discovered that there are many places to play sports throughout Tashkent, but they vary in quality/ease of use. Some of them didn’t work well for us, but some others turned out perfect.

For our family, the Yoshlik sport complex located at Oqqo’rg’on street, 16а seemed a great choice. It’s centrally located, so it’s just a short taxi ride for us. This complex features indoor and outdoor tennis courts, a large soccer field with a running track, a fitness room, and indoor and outdoor swimming pools, among others. They also offer many different sports activities for kids. For many activities, you can pay by card at the cashier (“kassa”) at the front. This sports complex used to belong to NBU bank (hence, you sometimes hear it referred to as the NBU stadium). Recently, it was purchased by another local bank.

Importantly, you must purchase a ticket for an activity to enter the Yoshlik complex. There is a guard at the entrance who will check your ticket as you enter. You cannot just walk around or jog unless you buy a basic ticket. UZS 35,000 (about $3) will give you access to the complex and an opportunity to use the running track.

If you like golf, there are two great places: ST Golf Academy (driving range) and Tashkent Lakeside Golf Club, which features an 18-hole golf course with a driving range. They accept major credit cards and quality of service is high.

Another good option is Ecopark Tashkent, where you can play ping-pong, badminton, and volleyball, run, and ride a bike.

Safety

After living in Tashkent for over 2 years, I feel that Uzbekistan is a rather safe country. This is largely due to strong safety measures implemented by the authorities. When you are in Tashkent, you’ll quickly spot policemen in many places. They carefully watch everything that is going on. When you enter the metro, you will be greeted by a policeman who will politely check your bag and make sure you don’t bring any explosives or guns to the metro. The same often happens when you enter malls, churches, etc. These actions make you feel pretty safe. Generally, one can walk outside at night without any particular worry.

Despite the overall low risk level, there are a few significant risk factors to keep in mind. First, there are many car accidents on the road. Some drivers are very aggressive. One needs to be very careful crossing the street and driving. I often read reports about pedestrians getting hit by cars. If you are new in Tashkent, my suggestion is to cross with other people until you get used to this type of environment. Second, Tashkent is located in a high-seismic-risk area, so earthquakes are always a possibility. While this is beyond our control, it’s important to keep it in mind and prepare accordingly.

Pros and cons of living in Tashkent

There are many pros to living in Tashkent. Some of the main advantages I found include the following:

• The cost of living in Tashkent is quite low compared to the US and European countries. You will be able to afford many more things than you did back home.
• There is a wide choice of international schools.
• There are many nice restaurants and coffee shops where you can have a nice meal or just grab a coffee. The local cuisine is excellent, and there are many international restaurants as well. You will not go hungry here, that’s for sure (rather the opposite).
• Tashkent has a good choice of both apartments and houses for expats. Every family can find something good to their taste.
• Cultural life is quite rich. There are many concerts, operas, ballets, and kid-friendly performances your family can attend. All of these are usually quite inexpensive.
• Tashkent is a paradise for families with kids. Since the population of Uzbekistan is quite young and many people here have kids, there are many entertainment options. There are amusement parks such as Luna Park, Magic City, Ice City, and Metagalaktika.
• Tashkent has good connections to many countries in the region. If you live here, you’ll be able to take trips to some interesting countries, such as India, Japan, South Korea, Egypt, and Thailand. Oftentimes, there are direct flights, and travel agencies offer tours for very reasonable prices.
• There are many opportunities for domestic tourism. As you will quickly discover, Uzbekistan boasts a long list of world-famous landmarks. You can visit Bukhara, Samarkand, Khiva, as well as many other interesting places, such as the Fergana Valley, Zamin, and the Sukok Natural Reserve. Tashkent is also close to the mountains, so you’ll be able to take short trips there on the weekend (a 1-2 hour drive).

Like with any city, there are also some disadvantages of living in Tashkent to keep in mind:

• For people who don’t speak Russian or Uzbek, getting around won’t be easy (at least at first). English is not widely spoken.
• The summer weather is brutally hot. It can reach 45C in the shade during the hottest months. Generally, it’s very hot from mid-May to the beginning of September.
• Air quality is often an issue. Tashkent is very dusty, and on some days, the air quality is quite low. People who are sensitive to these issues would need to wear a mask on certain days.
• Traffic is very bad during rush hour. Your morning and evening commute can often be a nightmare.
• Crossing streets as a pedestrian is not easy. You have to be fast, as there is usually not enough time to cross. You also always have to stay vigilant, as cars don’t always follow the rules. There are lots of accidents throughout the city. One needs to be careful.
• The time difference with the US is large (for Washington DC, it’s 9-10 hours). If you work for a US organization, you will end up having late-night calls all the time.
• If you are from the US, flying home won’t be easy. Even though Uzbekistan Airways and Turkish Airlines offer good connections, it will still be a very long trip. For me, going back to the US once or twice a year is the most I can handle.